If you could only have one shoe in your arsenal, I have to say; we have a winner here with the Butora Acro (Narrow/Tight). It may not be able to do everything your climbing heart desires, but it will be a trusty companion for MOST of your rock adventures.
As a climber, we are all in search of the perfect shoe. One that fits our foot like a glove so that we can get out there and crush all our projects, or at least not have to worry about our foot blowing off on the crux move. If you have narrow feet, we think you’ll like the Butora Acros. Here is our review.
Price
Coming in at $160, these South Korean-made climbing shoes are a great value for money shoe as they are comparable to La Sportivas and 5.10s but at a lower price point.
Butora Acro Performance
Expertly crafted with Butora Neo Fuse Rubber, which contends with the Vibram XS and Stealth rubber, the Acro is on the stiffer side in terms of rubber, but not so stiff that you can’t feel the rock.
The rubber extends to the upper part of the shoe for good toe hooking ability, also allowing for a tighter toe box so that you feel nice and snug in your shoe even as the shoe breaks in.
The Butora Acro is a triple threat with it’s great edging, smearing, and great for pocket climbing.
Edging
With the combination of the tight toe box and flexible midsole, this performance-oriented shoe is my top choice for secure feeling on those micro edges that you always thought twice about trusting.
Edging is on par with the crowd favorite La Sportiva Muiras, which I also love, but they don’t fit my feet.
The new Acro Comps have a much more pliable midsole that does not compromise the shoe’s function if that is what you are looking for.
It’s a great feeling when you step on some nonsense and think, “that’ll hold.”
Smearing
Although stiff, you still get an incredible amount of sensitivity, and you won’t need a second pair of shoes for those slab days. Unless you want to have a collection of shoes because, why not?
The Neo Fuse rubber is also soft enough to smear and feel even the slightest bumps on slick granite.
Did you find a sharp micro-crystal? Fear not; that’s all you need!
Pockets
If you’re like me and pockets are your jam, these babies will work for you too!
The slight downturn of the toe helps grab on to those steep pockets.
The toe box is slightly large for those finger pockets, but are pretty golden for any pocket you can get two or more fingers into.
Not to mention, the downturn is fantastic for toeing in hard and pulling.
You won’t have to worry about popping out of pockets in these bad boys.
Crack Climbing
On occasion, I’ve jammed these shoes into a crack and I’ve found the layer of rubber covering the top of the shoe adds a small layer of protection to the top of your toes.
This wouldn’t be my first choice for crack climbing or trad climbing, but they work in a bind.
I would recommend the Butora Altura for trad, crack, and big wall if you are looking for an alternative.
Butora Acro Fit
The Butora Acro comes in two versions – Narrow and Wide – talk about options!
Sizing
True to street shoe size for a snug fit.
Runs smaller than most climbing shoes available, so I do not recommend downsizing like you would with other shoes.
I wear a 7.5 women’s street shoe and have been sporting 7.5 in the Acro.
I much prefer the Butora Acro over the La Sportiva Solutions and they fit my foot shape almost perfectly.
Smaller Heel Cup
I have small heels, so finding a climbing shoe that doesn’t slide off my heels every time I heel hook anything is a huge problem. This is the first thing I test out when I try on new climbing shoes. Even brand new La Sportiva Muira’s and 5.10 Teams slide right off when I heel hook, which is unfortunate because they are also clutch buys.
With the Butora Acro, I found that, even after they have broken in, I can yard on the heel and the shoe is not going to go anywhere.
Some have claimed this shoe to have too much space in the heel, so this is something you may want to test for yourself.
Comfort
Fits comfortably right out of the box, tight but not painful.
The Acro does not hurt like most other aggressive shoes. I can wear them all day, with occasional breaks, without my feet feeling like they’re dying.
Once the shoes are broken in, they are comfortable. I’ve worn the Acro on a handful of multi-pitch climbs, but I wouldn’t recommend doing a big wall climb in them. You will feel them after a few pitches, especially in the heat.
Since there is rubber on the top of the shoe, it is not as forgiving to swollen feet.
Pros
- Versatile shoe – Great for bouldering and sport climbing
- Secure and snug fit due to tight toe box and small heel
Cons
- Due to the vast amount of rubber, the shoe gets hot in the sun
- Asymmetrical toe shape takes some getting used to
Bottom Line
From cranking hard on those burly overhung problems, to styling up techy slab climbs, the Acro is my tried-and-true send shoes. I find the Butora Acro a well-balanced shoe that allows me to perform on multiple terrains. This is a high-performance shoe that is stiff enough for those precarious edges and gnarly cranks without sacrificing the sensitivity needed on the more delicate styles of climbing. Not to mention, the Butora Acro is definitely a bang for your buck deal!
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